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As we sailed through the Strait of Magellan and the Beagle Channel, we listened to Simon’s tales of the those hearty explorers burdened in their great coats and other 19th century garb, and of the Fuegans, the indigenous inhabitants of this severe world, who in snow and ice wore no clothes at all except an animal draped over their shoulders.One really wonders how these intrepid people survived!

I, dressed in layers of high tech winter clothing, was freezing to death if I stayed out on deck too long when we were under sail (and to think this was summer here---what on earth must winter be like?) But of course this was merely the calm (or cold) before the storm. When the skipper determined that we would attempt to go around the Horn, I had no idea what 50 mile an hour winds with sleet and rain would feel like. Also, I never thought to inquire what they really meant by that word “attempt”.

I should have asked if we could we turn around if the going got too rough, or if we would be just another casualty of Cape Horn that one hears about in all of those sad sea ballads. I have never been much afraid of challenging situations, whether jumping horses, rigorous sailing, extreme skiing or going to questionable places, so fear was not a factor for me. Perhaps it is just a reflection of the old adage “ignorance is bliss,” but I do not scare easily.

What did get me, however, was the cold, and seasickness. We were informed by the captain that under no circumstances could we be on deck without being tethered to the boat and dressed in full life preserver gear. Even the very experienced crew were required to follow these extreme dress regulations. As the waves washed up over the deck of the boat, the captain (wearing ski goggles so he could avoid his vision being impaired by the pelting sleet)